Sunday, November 3, 2013

At home in Margs

It's hard to believe that Eric and I have been in Margaret River for almost six weeks already.  That may be because it's been divided into three distinct periods.  For the first two weeks, we were scrambling around to get settled, with Eric out to Melbourne to pick up the car and then both of us up to Perth to make the major baby purchases.  Then we had a couple of weeks of cold and rain during which we settled into a regular routine of going to the gym, attending doctor's appointments, and watching too much Lost on the sofa.

The best time is now, though (although we're still watching too much Lost as we're reaching the end of the series).  The weather has been absolutely stunning for the past couple of weeks, which means that while we still head to the gym every few days for a swim, most of our exercise is beach based.  While Eric goes for a surf, I walk our neighbour's dog along the coastal path and back.  It's about an hour fifteen minutes round trip with stunning scenery all along the way (and a few good hills to pant up).
View from the lookout where Oscar and I turn around
Coastal path at Prevelly Beach
Oscar!
Similar to our time in Phillip Island, we attend every local event we can.  During the recent school holidays, we crowded into the local community centre with the other kids to see Monsters University and Despicable Me 2.  At least soon we'll have a kiddo of our own and look less like a weird pedophile couple attending those events.  To be fair, we have also attended two documentaries, one about the Group Settlement Scheme that populated this area in the 1920s (No Milk, No Honey) and one about surfing that starred our downstairs neighbour (Barnacles and Stripes).
Eric in the Margaret River 10 km "fun" run
Me at the end of the 4 km waddle at 37 weeks' preggers
We tried to appreciate dressage, but it seemed to be horses walking in circles to really bad music
Love circle lead by a giant banana after yoga in the park, run by my yoga teacher to raise money for the Cancer Society
Every town in Australia with a population of at least a couple thousand people has an agricultural show, which is like a county fair.  My highlight from this year's Margaret River show was the children's pet show, where each child walked with (or was dragged by) their pet around the competitor's circle in categories like Wiggliest Bum or Best Dressed.  Being rural Australia, there were exotics like ducks and baby roos in addition to the dogs, cats, rabbits, and gerbils.  We spent at least an hour perusing all of the kids' artwork and other crafts in inventive categories like best Lego structure or best veggie sculpture.
Children's pet show: the girl standing up has a joey in the sack slung over her back
Children's veggie sculptures

We've also met some lovely locals, and the town is so small that we tend to run into them regularly.  I've been attending antenatal yoga and pilates classes, and two of my classmates who are due within a week of me also popped up in our antenatal class at the hospital.  I've also been attending the fortnightly morning teas for the Australian Breastfeeding Association, which generally have three or four mums present, one of whom I then ran into at the ag show, the pub, and then the cake sale at the IGA.  One of the mums invited me to attend MamaBake, which is an ingenious gathering where mums cook and then split up the meals.  I was hoping to do a vego session at our house, but after seeing how many toddlers turned up, I realised our apartment is nowhere near kid safe.
One of the parrots I try to entice over from Jason's balcony with more expensive pellets
Eric has been volunteering at the community organic gardens, where they are most grateful to have some young blood.  The average volunteer age in the 60s may have something to do with their hours being from 1-5 pm on Wednesdays when most youngsters are at work.  Not us, although I have been doing a bit of contract work for my company back in Melbourne.  As far as Eric can tell, the group mainly focuses on tea and cakes anyway, with a smattering of gardening for the more energetic.

Eric's organic garden tea party spot
One of the work sheds at the organic garden
The thing that has made us feel most at home, though, is getting to know our neighbours.  Jason, who lives in the unit next door, started by standing under our balcony yelling "Johnsons!" until we came out and went with him for coffee, although now he just comes on in after inquiring up the stairs whether we're decent.  He adopted Oscar, a black kelpie, soon after we moved in, and I snag Jason's spare key and steal Oscar for a walk down the river or along the beach most days.

Jason sells coffee from his little SUV in the beach parking lots, and his outgoing nature means he brings home a lot of stray people, not just kelpies.  Sarah and Isaac are a young backpacker couple who are living with him for a few months while they do manual labour at the local vineyards.  I worry that poor little Sarah is going to expire if it gets any hotter.
Jason's business, Friends for Coffee
The only other inhabitant of our little complex is Brett, the professional surfer who lives below us.  Not only was he in the Barnacles and Stripes documentary, but he was one of the surfing doubles in Drift, an actual Hollywood release.  All of the neighbours got together one night to watch it, which was made more interesting by Brett telling us at which local beach each scene was filmed and how much the interviews included as special features stretched the surfing abilities of the actual movie stars, most of whom could barely swim it sounds like.

Thanksgiving feast, a few weeks early given that I'm due the week before the actual holiday
So lucky to have met such lovely people in such a random corner of the world!
Because none of our neighbours works regular hours, it's a bit like being back in the dorms when everyone had copious spare time.  The photo below is the conclusion of our three-week quest to get the broken fridge off our balcony.  Glen, the handy man sent by the real estate agent, came out a few times to ponder different ideas with ropes and pulleys, but in the end it was his last task before knocking off on a Friday afternoon, and the boys just chucked it over the railing and hoped for the best.  Of course, he knew Brett, and everyone was keen to get involved, so it was a bit of a group effort.  Just another typical afternoon in Margs.
Fridge ho!

Book report 8

Visit Sunny Chernobyl: And Other Adventures in the World’s Most Polluted Places by Andrew Blackwell

The author makes a tongue-in-cheek case for establishing tourism in the world’s most polluted places, and he almost convinces the reader by enjoying himself in each of the spots he visits.  From his writing style, I suspect this is because he’s a roguishly charming guy who could make friends with a hostile interrogation squad.  The people he meets are the highlight of the book, but you learn a lot along the way about strip mining, the treatment of nuclear waste, the “trash island” in the Pacific, etc.  He  not a rabid environmentalist, so he seems to present a relatively unbiased picture of each location, acknowledging the needs of people to coexist with nature instead of assuming that any human action that damages the environment is inherently evil.

Wilson by A Scott Berg

I pre-ordered this book on the strength of the excerpt published in Vanity Fair and because I really enjoyed the author’s biography of Lindbergh.  Unfortunately, that excerpt comprised the most interesting 15 pages of what was a very long book.  Although I picked up some interesting historical context along the way, like the lengths that women went to in their fight for the vote and the fact that segregation wasn’t “invented” as an official government policy until the 1910s, mostly I just ended up hating Woodrow Wilson.  What a sanctimonious windbag.  Perhaps that is what comes of being a career academic with just a couple of years as governor before assuming leadership of what coincidentally became the world’s largest superpower during his time in office.  I was also struck by how little time he seemed to spend actually working and by how easy it was for his wife and a few key advisors to hide the fact that he was incapacitated by a stroke for half of his second term in office.  However, the interesting bits of this book did not make up for the hours I spent with toothpicks holding open my eyelids wishing I would just get to footnotes and citations and be able to read something else.

Hans and Rudolf: The true story of the German Jew who tracked down and caught the Kommandant of Auschwitz by Thomas Harding

This author is a descendant of the Nazi tracker, but he still does an admirable job of presenting an unbiased view of both major characters.  In part, this might be because he had no idea of the role his relative had played after the war until attending his funeral.  About half of the book takes place before World War II and explains the context in which each man develops to lead to the climactic capture.  On the side of Rudolf, it’s an interesting expansion on the “I was just following orders” defense that so many Nazis gave.  For Hans part, the story demonstrates how strength of character can allow someone to move on even after the most horrific events.  One surprising note was how difficult Hans found it to join the British military due to his German origins, even though he and his family were all refugees.  For quite some time, he and his brother were wasted digging ditches since they couldn’t carry guns.  However, the Brits were eventually desperate for any resources they could muster and made better use of the twins and other refugees keen to defeat their former fatherland.   

Winter Season: A Dancer’s Journal by Toni Bentley

Like many women, I’ve always been intrigued by ballerinas, which seem like some kind of ethereal human-swan hybrid.  I read that this was one of the most accurate depictions of life as a dancer in the corps, although the diary is limited to one stage season in her career.  I suspect it’s other ballerinas who have found her account so compelling, because 90% of the book is her internal struggle with whether the total dedication required is worth the meagre output while only 10% covers the day-to-day details in which non-dancers might be interested. 

Most interesting, and difficult to relate to, was how resistant she was to join her union in seeking additional compensation, even though the dancers all seem to live just this side of poverty.  Somehow being fairly paid would reduce the sacrifice in being a dancer and thus make the experience less valuable to her.  Perhaps if she’d eaten a full meal in the last 20 years she might have been able to think more clearly about her own best interests.

When Dogs Cry by Markus Zusak

I’ve enjoyed all of this author’s books I’ve read, particularly The Book Thief, which I’m interested to see on the big screen when the film is released.  I’m also a little proud that he’s an Aussie.  This short book details the perspective and experiences of a working-class Sydney teen who lives in the shadow of his two more stereotypically masculine brothers.  In large part it’s a love story, but it stays just this side of cheesy.  Each chapter begins with part of an epic poem he’s composing, which I didn’t really get, but aside from that the book is a good, quick read.

The Tiger’s Wife by Tea Obreht

I can’t remember how I came to own this book, and my expectations were pretty low as the title had me expecting an emotionally wrought Oprah’s booklist novel.  I suspect it’s because I was crossing it with The Life of Pi, which features a tiger.  Regardless of my low expectations, or perhaps because of them, I really enjoyed this book.  The story is of a young female doctor attempting to practice modern medicine in divided, superstitious villages of former Yugoslavia whilst unravelling some myths passed along by her recently deceased father.  The political/historical context with which she struggles is as interesting as the story itself, and while the antiquated beliefs are not shared by the author, she is clearly sympathetic to how they developed over centuries of isolation and hardship.

Mr Penumbra’s 24-Hour Bookstore by Robin Sloan

This is another book that must have been a gift, although I’m not sure from whom at this point.  Anyway, a big thank you to them as it was a really enjoyable read.  Beneath the plot is an interesting reflection on the role of technology versus tradition in our society, but the dilemma is couched within quirky, engaging dialogue and characters.  The main character takes a job in what seems to be a dying bookstore after losing his job as a web designer, only to find himself embroiled in a mystery as old as the printing press.  He includes his eclectic friends, all of whom work in the technology industry in the Bay area, in his quest to break the code held in a secretive international library.  I’m not usually a reader of mystery or adventure novels, but I could barely put this one down until I finished it. 

Things Fall Apart by Chinua Achebe

Written in the 1950s, this was one of the first novels of the African experience written by an African author, who grew up around villages similar to the ones depicted in his book before going on to international renown as a writer and academic.  Similar to The Tiger’s Wife, the book depicts local superstitions and customs that seem silly to modern Western readers sensitively and within the context in which they developed. 

The book follows the patriarch of one village family through his struggles between doing what is expected of him and what his emotions compel him to do.  The book doesn’t pull any punches, and he is at times a less than relatable character when he chooses to follow tradition over what his conscience, and modern morality, would suggest as the best course.  During the latter part of the book, and the reason for the title, white missionaries begin infiltrating the villages and challenging the traditions that have held the communities together for centuries to disastrous effect.

Grimus by Salman Rushdie

I’ve always said that Rushdie is one of my favourite authors because of his cleverly written dialogue and stories, but I’ve found the last couple of his books that I’ve read quite painful.  During my slog through Grimus, I pondered whether this might reflect a change in my preferences but arrived at the conclusion that Rushdie’s books that I love are the ones like The Satanic Versus and Midnight’s Children that take place within a real historical or cultural context.  All of his books have an element of fantasy, but his books that I’ve read recently are complete fairy tales without any insight into the real world.  He’s still very clever in his language (i.e., referring to the shaman as the sham-man in this book), but it’s not enough when I’m not interested in the story or characters.  At least I’ve cracked the mystery so that in the future I can read his books I am most likely to enjoy and thus avoid “losing” one of my favourite authors.

The Road to Prevelly by Geoffrey Edwards


Prevelly is the little hillside village on the beach where Eric surfs and I walk with Oscar on many days.  I picked this local history up on a whim from the shelf at the library, and I’m so glad I did.  The author’s parents came over from England on the Group Settlement Scheme in the 1920s, about which I watched a documentary at the local cultural centre (No Milk, No Honey).  He knocked around south of Perth doing various trades until signing up for World War II and being shipped to Crete, where he made a daring escape from the Nazis.  After returning from the war, he married his sweetheart and they pursued their dream of building a holiday park on a remote piece of land accessible only by a rutted dirt fishing track.  Their ambition, persistence, and incredibly hard work lead to the establishment of a whole beachside community, which he named after the Monastery of Preveli in Crete, which assisted him during his escape from the Nazis.  While not a professional author, his enthusiasm and positivity make the book a delightful read.  When Eric asked me how the book was, I just told him it was “adorable.”